Justin
My name is Justin Cole, I am a mechanical engineer, I graduated with my Bs in may and I am attending WVU for my masters. I am a geek, engineer, maker, and builder.

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Reprap Updates

I am in the process of printing a new skull bowl for Ash’s dad.

There is a new version of Slic3r out that I am giving a try first.

Pronterface has be updated.

I read a great post about upgrading to Marlin firmware that results in higher resolution due to the fact that it has motion planning built in.

Reprap Information

So I recently built a Reprap 3d Printer.  I am going to detail a few things I had to figure out and find to get it running optimally.

First I bought a Reprap Prusa kit with assembled electronics from Makergear.com.  They offer the cheapest kits around and I can say that the build quality is very high for that low price.  They include lots of stuff along with the essential parts.  These include allen wrenches, a level, a spacing assistant that is a piece of lasercut wood, and tons of extra nuts and bolts.  They must get the hardware at some cheap prices to include so many extras.  The printed parts for the reprap are great.  They are incredibly well made. 

The build of the reprap followed the regular reprap build guide except for certain steps that were either listed in maker gear’s build guide or on their website like plastruder.  The directions the new heated bed are not included much at all.  It is just a few wires and securing it to the board but the placement of the thermistor (temperature sensor) was not outlined.  I just placed mine in a corner so not to be bothered.  

Overall the build took about 2 whole days.  I conducted mine in two different places due to the fact that I got it while in Mississippi at Ash’s parents and then a day after traveled to tennessee then to my parent’s house back in West Virginia.  The bulk of the machine and most of the extruder was finished while in Mississippi.   While in West Virginia I assembled it all and wired the endstops.  I then commenced the long process of testing and tweaking the software and hardware settings.

The hardware settings involved getting the heated bed platform to be level with the extruder over the whole surface.  This makes the prints come out so much better.  The endstops were set and reset to improve build quality.  The software was a different story.

Right now there are multiple programs to run your reprap.  A few are Repsnapper, Repstrapper (I think), PrintRun.  Printrun is what I am currently running with great ease.  This connects to the printer, allows you to move all the motors and turn the extruder and heated bed on.  It also displays the process of the print.  It also can use plugins to slice the stl files.  I do this a bit differently though.  

There are a few ways to slice your prints into gcode that the printer understands.  The first and major program is skeinforge.  There are multiple programs built atop this engine.  One is ReplicatorG, its well liked but it is slow and mainly built for Makerbots.  Another program is called Sfact, it uses skeinforge but speeds it up greatly.  It is a horrible looking program with a ton of buttons.  Another is Slic3r.  This is the program I run to slice my models that I export from my cad program, Autodesk Inventor.  It is a simple little program that slices very quickly with great results.  Everything is presented well and it works.  After adjusting the settings to the correct amounts by trial and error I have my printer spitting out great prints.

In conclusion I have had some fun and frustrating times building my reprap but overall it was worth the effort. I can now produce plastic versions of my designs on my desk.  I highly recommend one of the many different 3d printers on the market.

This is my first somewhat decent looking prints.  It was supposed to be a one centimeter cube.

This is my first somewhat decent looking prints. It was supposed to be a one centimeter cube.

3d Printer Update

I have all the hardware and electronics assembled but I am now working on it communicating with my computer.  It was not as simple as plug and play.  I will post some pre cleanup photos in a few minutes.  I got it tuesday morning and built all of tuesday.  I have a nice timelapse shot collection from my goPro that Ash got me of the hardware build.  I worked some wednesday on the extruder and wiring.  We then drove to tennessee, stayed the night and then drove to west virginia.  I got the electronics finished last night after arriving at my parents.  Now its just getting my computer sending commands to it and it’ll be printing.

3d Printer

I got mine.  I will be assembling it now.  See you later!

Infrared controlled timelapse photography with Canon DSLRs
I just set this up with my Canon Digital Rebel Xt and I plan on using it here soon to try and get some nighttime timelapse shots.  Hopefully it works.  I also need to get a charger for my camera battery.
Control Your Camera

Infrared controlled timelapse photography with Canon DSLRs

I just set this up with my Canon Digital Rebel Xt and I plan on using it here soon to try and get some nighttime timelapse shots.  Hopefully it works.  I also need to get a charger for my camera battery.

Control Your Camera

Positive Procrastination!
I built a simple gui that sends serial commands to my controller for the truck.
It works too!

Positive Procrastination!

I built a simple gui that sends serial commands to my controller for the truck.

It works too!

So yesterday Ash let me open one of my presents from her early.  She left this afternoon to go to Chicago for the weekend with her parents.  Well she surprised me with a remote control airsoft truck.  She let me have it so I would have something to do this weekend but I think she overestimated the time it would take me to hack it.  

I started this evening around 6 I think and I have already assumed control of it over a serial terminal.  This is thanks to the arduino that I installed in the remote.  I just attached a wire to connect each idividual switch to the arduino digital pins.  This was my original idea on how to do it but it threw me a curve ball.  Instead of the buttons allowing voltage to go through, they grounded the line.  So I just set all my pins to high and when I want to enable them I just set the line to low for however I want them to run.  

I also taped my old nexus one on the turret and run an app called Ipcam that broadcasts a simple webcam stream over wifi.  I just run this and bring up the ip in my browser and I can see what I am shooting at.  

I am planning on making it autonomous in the future or add wifi to it and run it completely on my phone.  But it was a quick and simple hack that gave me a few hours of hacking fun.  Now to scare the animals with it.

My robotic path planner I have been working on.
The first window is a plot of the robot with the squares being its limits of its vision.
The second window is an animated plot of the robot going along the course.
The third is a calculation of the whole potential field.

My robotic path planner I have been working on.

The first window is a plot of the robot with the squares being its limits of its vision.

The second window is an animated plot of the robot going along the course.

The third is a calculation of the whole potential field.

Here is a screenshot of my ring being featured on Shapeways.  Go take a look and pick one up if you like it.  Shapeways.com/gifts